A liquid-filled olive sphere
Normally when Steve goes out to dinner, it results in a Restaurant Project post. But after lucky timing found Steve with reservations for the chefs’ table at Next: El Bulli, it became clear that this wasn’t a meal that could be replicated.
In fact, it’s not even a meal that’s easily described. Compared to Steve’s experience at Next: Childhood, the El Bulli evening was completely different. 29 courses, a full view of the kitchen, and a complete retrospective of one of the greatest restaurants in the world made for an evening that no one could forget.
A "golden egg"
Since Ferran Adrià’s arrival at el Bulli in 1984, the Catalonian restaurant has grown to become one of the most important culinary forces in the world. Michelin stars, World’s Best Restaurant designations, and other awards hardly convey the contributions that el Bulli has made in expanding the world’s idea of what food and restaurants can mean.
So when Adrià announced last year that el Bulli would close in 2012, it sent shock waves through the culinary world. Who would pick up the torch of innovation and progressive cuisine if Adrià was no longer in his restaurant? Grant Achatz, of course. The two chefs had always been at the forefront of progressive cuisine, and Achatz had even worked in the kitchen at el Bulli for a few weeks in 2000. He decided that Next should attempt to recreate many of el Bulli’s signature dishes served from the late 1980s onwards. What resulted was Next: el Bulli, a 29-course “Greatest Hits” progression through the restaurant’s history, with Grant Achatz, Dave Beran, and the rest of the Next kitchen as the cover band.
To say it was amazing is an understatement. Many of the dishes were technically astounding, from spherized, liquid-filled chicken capsules to hollow globes of gorgonzola cheese. It was especially remarkable to be able to trace Adrià’s growth as a chef, from a classic French shrimp dish that he served in 1988 to a spice-covered dish of ice served in 2009. Knowledgeable servers explained the influences in each dish, helping guide the table through the menu’s history.
A fish course served atop a glass plate and a seashell-filled pillow
Wine and other beverage pairings were available for each course, and at times, they were as unique as the food. Steve and his brother, Tom, opted for the wine pairings, while the rest of the table chose the wine/cocktail/beer option. From a hearty, acidic Domaine Bordatto “Basa Jaun” cider to an exclusive beer brewed with Half Acre Brewing Company to a cava mixed with vials of farigoule thyme liquer and Pineau des Charentes digesetif, the beverages were an experience in and of themselves.
The view from chefs' table
Then, there was the view. The chefs’ table, separated from the main dining room by a wall, offered a complete view of the kitchen. Inside, a small army of more than a dozen chefs works efficiently to prepare each of the labor-intensive 29 courses. What was most amazing was the timing and coordination required of all the chefs. When you’re working with ingredients as delicate as ice sheets and foam, it’s crucial that the kitchen and the servers operate on precision timing.
That was the take-away from the evening: precision. Every dish, every drink, every moment of the service was technically perfect. If Grant Achatz and Dave Beran are an el Bulli cover band, they’re rocking like the real deal.
